[The history of Japanese game culture] From the Meiji era to the Reiwa era, the distance between humans and the wild 1
Unlike the hunting culture of the nobility in Europe, the game meat culture in Japan has taken root as a "gift from the mountains" closely linked to daily life. From the Meiji to the Reiwa era, its status has changed significantly with the times, but people have always been close to game meat as "the wisdom of living with the mountains."
Meiji Period: "Mountain Prey" for Survival
In the early Meiji period, self-sufficient living was the norm in rural areas, and wild plants, mushrooms, and meat from animals such as deer and wild boar were indispensable as "mountain delicacies."
The Matagi of Tohoku would venture into the mountains to chase bears and rabbits, making use of everything from meat to gallbladder and fur without wasting anything. **Bear gall** was a valuable commodity for medicinal purposes, and was also used as a tool for barter with merchants.
In the mountainous areas of western Japan , wild boars are an important source of protein, and hunting is an annual event. The "boar hotpot" served after the festival also had the significance of being an offering to the gods.
Taisho period: Diversification of food culture and the formation of "local cuisine"
As distribution improved with the opening of the railway, "game dishes" began to be introduced to the outside world as a local specialty.
In Toyamago, Shinshu, "shika sashimi," raw venison, has become a local specialty and is popular among tourists.
In the Tamba region , wild boar meat is served as "peony hotpot," which resembles a peony flower, and it has become a refined part of inn cuisine.
It was during this period that game meat began to elevate from a "symbol of poverty" to a "local delicacy."
Showa Period: Urbanization and "Forgotten Flavors"
As Japan recovered from the war, with the development of refrigeration technology and the spread of livestock meat (beef, pork, and chicken), game meat began to disappear from everyday dining tables.
The hunting population peaked in the 1950s, but has since dropped sharply. In cities, game meat has come to be seen as a "delicacy" or something that belongs to the "world of matagi hunters," and people have come to shun it.
Nevertheless, food cultures in rural areas continued to be quietly preserved. In Kochi's Yusuhara town , local hunters serve charcoal-grilled venison for New Year's dishes, and in Kumamoto's Itsuki village , smoked wild boar meat is still a popular mountain food.
Heisei era: Damage caused by pests and “reassessment as a resource”
In the 21st century, damage to crops caused by wild animals became more serious. As the numbers of deer and wild boar increased, gibier began to attract attention again as a measure to control pests.
In the mid-2000s, with support from the government, slaughtering and processing facilities were established in various locations, and hygienic game meat distribution began in Kochi, Tottori, Gifu, Iwate, and other areas.
At the same time, urban chefs reinterpreted game meat using French cooking techniques, and sophisticated dishes such as roasted venison, stewed wild boar, and duck confit appeared, helping to erase the prejudice that game meat is barbaric .
Reiwa era: sustainability and "everyday flavors"
In recent years, gibier has been attracting attention as a "regional resource" and "healthy food that is high in protein and low in fat."
The town of Onan in Shimane Prefecture has introduced venison into school lunches and begun educating children about "the lives of locally caught animals."
In Shiranuka Town, Hokkaido , venison is commercialized as dog food and pet soup, and has received high praise for its hometown tax donations.
Even in cities, wild game burgers and venison curry are becoming part of everyday menu items, and systems are spreading that allow people to easily enjoy meat that they normally can't buy in the meat section.
On the other hand, there are issues such as the aging of licensed hunters and a lack of successors, and new ideas are needed to protect the culture of "hunting locally and eating locally."
In the distance between man and beast
Living in the mountains in the Meiji era, local cuisine in the Taisho era, memories of the Showa era, rediscovery of the Heisei era, and the possibilities of the Reiwa era.
Japan's gibier culture has always been like a mirror that measures the distance between humans and nature. Humans have always dealt with animals as food, as part of culture, and as part of environmental issues.
Gibier has developed in harmony with the climate, seasons, and customs of each region. In the future, it will no longer just be about how delicious it is, but questions such as "Why is this meat here?" and "How should we eat it?" will likely be quietly asked at our dinner tables.